Fond de Cuisine de Mon Ami Ted
My friend ted’s stock recipe
Makes four quarts
My chef friend Ted developed a 2,000-word missive on the perfect stock. This simplified version captures key points of his méthode. A good stockpot is critical. Get a sturdy pan with a thick bottom, preferably stainless steel, which is nonreactive and easy to clean. Pure, clean water is essential, as the long simmering process concentrates all flavors, the good and the bad, which includes any gunk in your local water supply. This recipe is for a ten- to twelve- quart stockpot. Adjust the recipe as needed to fit your stockpot.
About 8 pounds (3.5 kg) chicken or beef and veal bones
8 quarts (8 l) pure, clean, cold water
1 pound (1 or 2 large) onions
½ pound (about 3 ribs) celery
½ pound (about 2 large) carrots (for brown stock only)
Parsley stems from one bunch
Few whole black peppercorns, bay leaf (optional)
Prepare and roast the bones
If bones are frozen, remove from freezer with plenty of time to thaw in fridge; this couldtake twenty- four hours. Place thawed and/ or fresh bones in stockpot or bowl and cover with water. Let stand for fifteen minutes and then drain, discarding the water. This helps to remove salt, freezer frost, blood, and other undesirables.
If making a white chicken stock, skip the browning step and put the bones into the pot with fresh water. To make a brown beef or chicken stock, roast the bones in a 375°F/ 1 90°C oven for 40 minutes, then add the vegetables. Continue to roast until the bones have a rich brown color, for a total of about sixty to ninety minutes.
Simmering the stock
Transfer the browned bones and vegetables to the stockpot and then cover with water. Pour the fat out of the roasting pan, add water, and gently loosen the pan drippings. Pour this into the stockpot. In either case, the water level should be at least three inches above the bones.
Apply high heat until the stock comes to a slow simmer. Then reduce the heat as necessary to maintain a gentle simmer. For the next couple of hours, use a ladle to regularly skim the foam and fat from the surface of the stock. Don’t let the stock boil; it will become cloudy. Add the vegetables, plus peppercorns and bay leaf if desired. Simmer the uncovered stock for a minimum of four hours for chicken and at least eight hours for beef, skimming every ninety minutes. Add water as needed to keep the bones submerged.